Lolloping in Ljubljana

Ljubljana might be the most relaxed capital we’ve ever wandered into. Nobody seems to be in a hurry: the centre is largely car-free, bikes outnumber cars, and the cafés and bars along the Ljubljanica river soon fill up with people who look as if they have nowhere else to be. It was very easy to fall into step, even in the heavy downpours, which we weren’t too upset about, especially since it was the first bit of proper rain we’ve had so far.

We ended up just mooching about, looking at the beautiful architecture, window-shopping, people-watching under bar awnings, and today (much drier) we ventured out to the weekly farmers’ market to stock up and sit down for some local fare.

We had only delightful experiences at the market… a butcher proudly slapping each of his cuts of meat while describing them, the biggest, most fragrant, freshest bunches of herbs, loose mixed salad leaves, sauerkraut and fermented turnip happily dispensed by the handful, and a bulb of smoked garlic tossed in to the bag as a gift.

The old town is quaint in the best sense, with cobbled lanes, pastel Baroque façades and little squares opening up around every corner, all watched over by the castle on its hill. Much of the city’s character comes from one architect, Jože Plečnik, whose Triple Bridge, riverside colonnades and market halls make strolling around feel very civilised. Add the Art Nouveau buildings around Prešeren Square and the dragons guarding Dragon Bridge, and it’s hard to walk far without stopping to look up.

The food punches well above the city’s size too, from outstanding bakeries (sourdough rolls with crackling, anyone?) to Slovenian staples like štruklji and Carniolan sausage.

It’s easy to see, even on a wet day, why some call it Europe’s most beautiful city.